Breaking the Bias in Tailoring

Women’s International Day 2022

This year’s theme is “Breaking The Bias”.

Imagine a gender-neutral world….

When I think about what it means to be a woman on International Women’s Day, the words that come to my mind are Power and Resilience.

When we learn to combine both these forces, we can literally change the world.

Take me for example. Some of you may know that alongside Gresham, I am co-founder of Gresham Blake.

BREAK BIAS, GO BESPOKE FOR £600 MEGA OFFER

Me, proudly wearing the first suit Gresham made for me

Now, traditionally, Bespoke Tailoring is very male-dominated and posh.

I have a few traits that did not quite fit into that mould.

Firstly, I am female.

Secondly, I am not white.

Thirdly, I am very vertically challenged!

I am not what you would typically expect as ‘YOUR BESPOKE CONSULTANT’ if you were buying a suit in Savile Row.  And, over the years, I have surprised a number of my client at that first consultation when I have said that I will be looking after them today.

However, what I have found, is what people want is – simply people that are very dedicated to what they do and have skills and knowledge to back that up.

From the first bespoke suit that Gresham made from me, I was completely hooked on tailoring.

My vision was to be able to provide this to everybody, in particular women. 

At Gresham Blake, we now specialise in women’s bespoke tailoring.  We have created patterns and designs which produce empowering garments, whatever direction you want to take.  Designing a women’s bespoke suit is the ultimate gender-neutral experience, where you can find yourself and express who you are through a beautifully tailored, stylish garment.

BREAK BIAS, GO BESPOKE FOR £600 MEGA OFFER

Bespoke tailoring has not been on most women’s radars, in part, because it has been so closely associated with menswear, but also because it’s been sold with the image of ‘gentlemen’s clubs’ and ‘country estates.’

For me, it’s completely the opposite.  I want to break those stuffy stereotypes and simply make well made, contemporary clothing for the individual.

More and more women are getting frustrated with the process of finding things that fit them well.  I am proud of the ladies tailoring services we provide.

And did you know that 80% of the Gresham Blake team are Female?

“Ohh, it’s a women’s tailor”, I still get that a lot.

“For goodness sakes, so what?”

I’ve earned my ‘pinstripes.’

BREAK BIAS, GO BESPOKE FOR £600 MEGA OFFER

Fun Fact

Unlike nuclear DNA, your mitochondrial DNA can only be passed down from your mother!

The mitochondria are specialised for producing the energy that each cell needs to function, and it is the reason that we can move our muscles or even think thoughts.

“On this International Women’s Day, I would like to thank my mum, my mother-in-law, and the generations of females rooted in my history for my internal strength.”

SPECIAL INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY MEGA OFFER

BESPOKE 2PC SUIT£600 (normally £1000+)This week only

The offer ends on Sunday 13th March

Simply, purchase the suit deal online then one of our bespoke tailoring consultants will call you to book you an appointment.

This is an offer not to be missed! With hundreds of British cloths to choose from this is your chance to design your perfect bespoke suit.

Treat yourself on International Women’s Day to something you will treasure forever.

BREAK BIAS, GO BESPOKE FOR £600 MEGA OFFER

Want the Best Bespoke Suit for Your Special Event? A little GB Guide, by Fal Blake.

Planning a wedding right now is challenging. Let us help you LOOK YOUR BEST on your wedding day.

As we turn the corner of the New Year, we know we are not alone in willing it to be a more positive one! Stepping into 2022 with an optimistic mentality, why not put your best foot forward and make sure that your clothes follows suit, pardon the pun! A GB bespoke piece is guaranteed to make you look and feel your absolute best at every occasion this year. Whether it’s a wedding, a party or a just well-earned get together. It will be such a relief to get back into our glad rags. Which is the perfect excuse to scope out our bespoke services, at Gresham Blake we offer a plethora of fabrics that will inspire the suavest of looks, guaranteed to have you looking and feeling your absolute best!

Do you have a special occasion on the horizon such as a WEDDING? 

If so, it’s important to look and feel your best. Wearing a suit off the peg might be convenient, but does it deliver the confidence and swagger you need to make a grand appearance and stand out from the crowd?

“Get smart and nothing can touch you”

Book an appointment today for a consultation.

Myself & Gresham on our wedding day, 1999

When you’re ready to make a dazzling impression, only a bespoke suit will do.

Today, we’re sharing a guide to our bespoke tailoring process and the radical difference it makes when it’s time to shine.

Ready to learn more? Let’s get started!

What is a Bespoke Suit?

Any clothing retailer can offer a suit that looks great off the peg. Yet, unless it’s designed to fit your exact measurements, it could end up both uncomfortable and unsightly once you try it on. 

That’s why it pays to invest in bespoke tailoring.

Book an appointment today for a consultation.

Franky Vicentio wearing a Gresham Blake 3 piece Black Silk Suit

We have a team of Expert Tailors at both our Shoreditch London and Brighton stores. When you choose the bespoke route, you’ll work with our tailors from the very beginning to create the perfect suit. We’ll spare no detail and take everything into consideration.

While the entire process takes around eight weeks, we can accommodate shorter timelines by special request by the customer. Let’s take a look at the process from start to finish.

Fabric Selection

Bespoke Cloth

From weddings and graduations to corporate events and galas, we understand that sometimes, you need a one-of-a-kind fabric that we don’t have in stock. If that’s the case, we’re more than happy to help you create it!

Book an appointment today for a consultation.

Bespoke Cloth designed by Gresham Blake

Our skilled design team will walk you through each step of this exciting and rewarding journey, taking into account both the exterior fabric and lining of your suit. Whether you’re creating a printed lining, suiting or shirting, we’ll help bring your ideas to life. We specialize in print design and woven jacquards!

Premium Cloths

While we have access to an extensive range of British milled cloths, we can also interpret a variety of other fabrics upon request. You can design your own print, insert panels, and add seams as desired!

Some of our premium fabric choices designed for suits and waistcoats include:

  • Mohair
  • Wool
  • Linen/ Cotton/ Silk

What is mohair?

A sweet little fluffy Angora Goat – looking effortlessly stylish

This luxuriously soft fabric is made from the hair of an Angora goats. Renowned around the world for its glistening sheen, mohair is also one of the most durable and great-wearing materials on the market!

It was huge in the 60’s – all the Mod’s wore Mohair, and looked super sharp.

And by the way, did you know Mohair is James Bond cloth of choice? 

Book an appointment today for a consultation.

Daniel Craig AKA James Bond, in a mohair suit

Prefer a wool suit? It’s one of the most timeless and attractive options, but it’s far from standard. As not all wool is created equal, let’s review how to discern the difference.

Understanding Worsted Wool and the Super System

In short, worsted wool is comprised of long fibres spun into a fine yarn. The result? A cloth that is sleek, refined and perfect for a variety of suit types. In addition to being attractive and versatile, worsted wool is also:

  • Breathable
  • Sturdy
  • Water-resistant
  • Wrinkle-resistant

If you’ve decided to use this fabric for your bespoke suit, your next step will be to navigate the Super System. These are the series of numbers that you’ve likely seen while shopping for a suit in the past. What do they mean?

The Super System is designed to represent the fabric’s fineness. Put simply, the number dictates how many times the wool has been twisted. As that count rises, so does the look and feel of the material. Still, all varieties possess the premium qualities of worsted wool.

For instance, a Super 180 suit will have a smoother appearance than a Super 80 suit, but that doesn’t mean the latter is lower quality. It will simply have a coarser and sturdier look. As a general rule of thumb, higher-number suits are reserved for more special occasions while lower-count varieties are ideal for regular, everyday use. 

As you do your research and browse your options, keep in mind that the Super System is not internationally standardised. Our team of tailors has its own guide and will advise you on the ideal number count that’s appropriate to your needs.

Book an appointment today for a consultation.

Design-Led Tailoring

There’s no designer touch we can’t add. Our tailors will take every consideration to help to create a design that fits your event and surpass your expectations. When you want to showcase your individual style, we’re your go-to Tailor!

Accents of ‘Fun’ on Gresham Blake Clothing….It’s the detail that counts!

While we pride ourselves in creating suits that “wow” on the outside, we know that true craftsmanship is in the details. That’s why we focus on the minute features that make a bespoke suit so special, including hand-sewn buttonholes, hand-stitched linings and turn-back collars.

We LOVE little accents of fun, and will guide you with what works.  For example, our very special client Mr. Honey likes Bumblebees embroidered under his top collar. This is embroidered onto a melton, which can also be in a contrasting colour.

These personal touches make the suit YOURS.

Measurements and Fittings

Our team will normally require only one to two fittings to make sure your new suit fits exactly the way it’s meant to. Our professionals can utilise contemporary or traditional tailoring techniques depending on your preferences.

Our contemporary tailoring services are more modern in nature, offering enhanced flexibility over traditional tailors. We’ll create any pattern or style you desire, and make sure it fits like a charm before your big reveal.

With a traditional tailoring experience, we’ll create a personal pattern that fits your measurements. Then, we’ll construct the garment with a loose canvas, allowing it to mould perfectly to your body shape and movements. This way, you can rest assured that your suit will flow as effortlessly and stylishly as you do, all night long.

Book an appointment today for a consultation.

Bespoke Tailoring Options

At Gresham Blake, we’ll take the time and care to create a bespoke suit that meets your exact specifications. Thanks to our design-led approach, nothing is out of the question. 

At Gresham Blake…anything is possible!

Let’s take a look at a few of our different cuts and styles you can peruse when you go for your consultation. 

Suit Cuts

Our three main suit cuts include:

  • Classic Fit
  • Relaxed Fit
  • Slim Fit

Our tailors will work with you to determine which cut flatters your features and meets your personal style preference.

Jackets: What Style?

We offer a vast range of   styles for our suit jackets, all of which are available upon request. These include Single Breasted/ Double Breasted/ Nehru Styles incorporating single-button, double-button, no-show buttons, and more,

We can also design three-button suit jackets, high-button styles, and other custom touches.

Jackets: Lapels

Your lapel is a place to make a style statement. We can accommodate a variety of styles, including:

  • Shawl lapels
  • Classic notch lapels (3.5-inch)
  • Narrow notch lapels (2-inch to 3.25-inch)
  • Peak lapels

When you want to turn heads for all the right reasons, you can also embellish your lapel! Our special additions include:

  • Contrasting top collars
  • Contrasting meltons under collars
  • Custom binding detail
  • HEE/AMF stitching

We also offer a variety of vent styles (back of jacket), pocket styles, and cuff styles for you to select! In addition to suit jackets, we can also create country-wear jackets and bespoke evening jackets perfect for a refined night on the town. In addition, our selection of longer wedding jackets is impressive and inspiring, with styles that include:

  • Morning coats
  • Classic white-tie coats
  • Frock coats

Waistcoats

Worn alone or as part of a three-piece suit, a waistcoat is a wardrobe staple. Why not make yours as unique as possible? Our tailors can create any design you dream up and add any special feature, such as:

  • Contrasting lapels
  • Custom button details
  • Contrasting buttonholes
  • Vertical chain holes for pocket watches
  • Horseshoe openings

Trousers

Depending on your body type, event and personal style preference, our tailors can provide many different kinds of trouser styles. Some of our top designs include:

  • Classic, flat-fronted trousers
  • Button side adjusters
  • Metal buckle side adjusters
  • Slanting front pockets
  • Turn-up cuffs
  • Fishtail backs
  • Satin side seams

Book an appointment today for a consultation.

Create Your Own Bespoke Suit With Gresham Blake

Want to stand a little taller and feel your best when it’s your turn to shine?

If so, only a bespoke suit from Gresham Blake will do.

Steve Coogan being fitted for a Bespoke Suit with Gresham Blake at our Brighton Store.

We offer an entirely personalized experience from the very start, with fair prices that beat most of our competitor’s. We believe that luxury and high end fashion do not have to come with a soaring price tag, and we’re dedicated to helping you look great without emptying your new designer pockets.

Book an appointment today for a consultation.

You’re about to become the best-dressed person in the room

So get ready to shine.

GB BESPOKE 500

Would you like to be part of our Bespoke 500 Club?

A Bespoke Suit for £500, normally £1000

60+ Cloth designs to choose from…

“A GRESHAM BLAKE Exclusive”

BUY NOW

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Screenshot-2020-10-13-at-16.58.13.png
Steve Coogan looking dapper in a GB Bespoke

A made to measure bespoke suit is like no other. Until you have experienced the cut and feel of suit made especially for you, it is hard to understand what all the fuss is about…

Now for only £500 you can do exactly this! Be prepared to feel suitably suave.

We have identified 60+ cloth designs alongside our fabric merchants at a discounted price for you. These cloths have been selected on account of excess fabric due to the current climate in consequence of the pandemic. This is a brilliant opportunity to get yourself a long-awaited bespoke suit worth £1000, with loads of fabrics from Autumn/Winter 20 to Spring/Summer 20. Please mind that this offer is on a first come first serve basis and there is limited availability on the selected cloths.

A wide variety of plain, herringbones, wools, linens, checks and stripes available

Do not fret this is not just a black suit, we have an expanse of different cloths designs included in the selection which offers a wide range of different suiting from tweed to houndstooth and from check to herringbone, this bunch will definitely have you covered. These cloths include classic and fancy suit cloths, which are all an absolute steal and one you would be sorry to miss out on.

One of our lovely clients looking amazing in his GB Bespoke Suit

Why do you need a Bespoke Suit?

Bespoke suiting exudes personality and individuality in a way that sometimes an off the peg suit struggles to do with the same amount of success. Bespoke suiting boasts a plethora of exquisitely fine-tuned details that wouldn’t necessarily be thought of which can add a very personal edge to a suit that you will be certain to treasure forever.

A bespoke suit is definitely an emotional purchase, every element being hand-picked down to the last button, ensuring you walk away with a truly personalised garment. The premium quality of a bespoke suit will also contribute to the longevity of the garment, enabling it to be worn with confidence for many years. It is the epitome of an investment buy, one in which will enrich your sartorial endeavours and be a loyal companion to many a special occasion. So even if the suit was originally purchased for a particular event, you will find that it becomes a wardrobe essential in no time.

This offer really is an all-rounder, as this doubles up to be the perfect gift for someone special too. Whether it be Christmas or an upcoming birthday? You really can’t get a gift that is more personal to them!

Today, we’re sharing a guide to our bespoke tailoring process and the radical difference it makes when it’s time to shine.

BUY NOW

A force to be reckoned with, a suitably suave trio in their GB bespoke suits.

What is a Bespoke Suit?

Any clothing retailer can offer a suit that looks great off the peg. Yet, unless it’s designed to fit your exact measurements, it could end up both uncomfortable and unsightly once you try it on. 

That’s why it pays to invest in Bespoke Tailoring.

We have a team of Expert Tailors at both our Shoreditch London and Brighton stores. When you choose the bespoke route, you’ll work with our tailors from the very beginning to create the perfect suit. We’ll spare no detail and take everything into consideration.

While the entire process takes around eight weeks, we can accommodate shorter timelines by special request by the customer. Let’s take a look at the process from start to finish.

BUY NOW

Check this GB Bespoke ensemble out!

Fabric Selection

Bespoke Cloth

From weddings and graduations to corporate events and galas, we understand that sometimes, you need a one-of-a-kind fabric that we don’t have in stock. If that’s the case, we’re more than happy to help you create it.

Our skilled design team will walk you through each step of this exciting and rewarding journey, taking into account both the exterior fabric and lining of your suit. Whether you’re creating a printed lining, suiting or shirting, we’ll help bring your ideas to life. We specialize in print design and woven jacquards!

Premium Cloths

While we have access to an extensive range of British milled cloths, we can also interpret a variety of other fabrics upon request. You can design your own print, insert panels, and add seams as desired!

Some of our premium fabric choices designed for suits and waistcoats include:

  • Mohair
  • Wool
  • Linen/ Cotton/ Silk

BUY NOW

Model is wearing Midnight Mohair 2 Piece Suit

What is Mohair?

This luxuriously soft fabric is made from the hair of an Angora goats. Renowned around the world for its glistening sheen, mohair is also one of the most durable and great-wearing materials on the market!

It was huge in the 60’s – all the Mod’s wore Mohair and looked super sharp.

And by the way, did you know Mohair is James Bond cloth of choice? Give me a better reason to joining the Mohair club than that!

BUY NOW

Model is wearing Navy Worsted Chalk Stripe 2 Piece Suit

Prefer a wool suit? It’s one of the most timeless and attractive options, but it’s far from standard. As not all wool is created equal, let’s review how to discern the difference.

Understanding Worsted Wool and the Super System

In short, worsted wool is comprised of long fibres spun into a fine yarn. The result? A cloth that is sleek, refined and perfect for a variety of suit types. In addition to being attractive and versatile, worsted wool is also:

  • Breathable
  • Sturdy
  • Water-resistant
  • Wrinkle-resistant

If you’ve decided to use this fabric for your bespoke suit, your next step will be to navigate the Super System. These are the series of numbers that you’ve likely seen while shopping for a suit in the past. What do they mean?

The Super System is designed to represent the fabric’s fineness. Put simply, the number dictates how many times the wool has been twisted. As that count rises, so does the look and feel of the material. Still, all varieties possess the premium qualities of worsted wool.

For instance, a Super 180 suit will have a smoother appearance than a Super 80 suit, but that doesn’t mean the latter is lower quality. It will simply have a coarser and sturdier look. As a general rule of thumb, higher-number suits are reserved for more special occasions while lower-count varieties are ideal for regular, everyday use. 

As you do your research and browse your options, keep in mind that the Super System is not internationally standardised. Our team of tailors has its own guide and will advise you on the ideal number count that’s appropriate to your needs.

BUY NOW

Mr and Mrs Honey in their bespoke bumblebee creations

Design-Led Tailoring

There’s no designer touch we can’t add. Our tailors will take every consideration to help to create a design that fits your event and surpass your expectations. When you want to showcase your individual style, we’re your go-to Tailor!

While we pride ourselves in creating suits that “wow” on the outside, we know that true craftsmanship is in the details. That’s why we focus on the minute features that make a bespoke suit so special, including hand-sewn buttonholes, hand-stitched linings and turn-back collars.

We LOVE little accents of fun and will guide you with what works.  For example, our very special client Mr. Honey likes Bumblebees embroidered under his top collar. This is embroidered onto a melton, which can also be in a contrasting colour.

These personal touches make the suit YOURS.

Measurements and Fittings

Our team will normally require only one to two fittings to make sure your new suit fits exactly the way it’s meant to. Our professionals can utilise contemporary or traditional tailoring techniques depending on your preferences.

Our contemporary tailoring services are more modern in nature, offering enhanced flexibility over traditional tailors. We’ll create any pattern or style you desire, and make sure it fits like a charm before your big reveal.

With a traditional tailoring experience, we’ll create a personal pattern that fits your measurements. Then, we’ll construct the garment with a loose canvas, allowing it to mould perfectly to your body shape and movements. This way, you can rest assured that your suit will flow as effortlessly and stylishly as you do, all night long.

BUY NOW

A classic GB Bespoke in a gentlemanly shade of grey

Bespoke Tailoring Options

At Gresham Blake, we’ll take the time and care to create a bespoke suit that meets your exact specifications. Thanks to our design-led approach, nothing is out of the question.

Want to stand a little taller and feel your best when it’s your turn to shine? If so, only a bespoke suit from Gresham Blake will do.

We offer an entirely personalised experience from the very start, with fair prices that beat most of our competitor’s. We believe that luxury and high-end fashion do not have to come with a soaring price tag, and we’re dedicated to helping you look great without emptying your new designer pockets.

How could we have not tickled your fancy with such an exclusive offer? Please click the Bespoke 500 Offer to claim your suit now. This promotion is first come first serve and limited availability on all of the selected cloths.

Hope to see you soon!

BUY NOW

Would you like to be part of our Bespoke 500 Club?

A Bespoke Suit for £500, normally £1000

60+ Cloth designs to choose from…

“A GB EXCLUSIVE”

Bespoke Wedding Suit

At Gresham Blake, we understand the importance of looking good and feeling your best on your wedding day. We offer a Bespoke Tailoring Service at its BEST.

At Gresham Blake, we understand the importance of looking good and feeling your best on your wedding day.

We will match you to the right tailoring consultant who will guide you through this exciting process and ultimately design the best bespoke suit for you.

We will consider everything that you think is relevant and give you as much advice as you need.

BOOK A CONSULTATION

GB WEDDINGS

FABRIC SELECTION

Proud to be ‘design-led’ tailors, we will give you thousands of cloths to choose from, but we can even design a bespoke cloth for you.

YOUR LOOK

Style wise, it will be your design that we incorporate into the pattern and we will guide you through this.  The details will make that suit personal for you.  Options include lapel style and width, types of pockets, ticket pocket (or not), side vent, single vent, button style, belt loops, side adjusters, zip fly button fly, pain bottoms, turn ups…the many more.   You can also personalise your suit.  Why not have your initials or the date of your wedding embroidered somewhere discretely inside your suit?  Or have something quirky embroidered underneath the melton on your top collar?

MEASUREMENTS

Your measurements will be taken, as well as notes on build, stance, and posture.

We will make you a perfectly fitting suit incorporating your style in the design, possibly with little accents of fun in the detail that will make you feel amazing on your wedding day and beyond.

At Gresham Blake we understand the need to create the perfect wedding suit, we are passionate about working with you and your wedding party to tailor the unique outfit that you are looking for.

WEDDING PACKAGES

We also provide a wedding package service, with special rates – where we can accommodate the entire wedding party from best man to groomsman, whether it’s a matching suit for your best man/lady, matching waistcoats for your groomsmen, or accessories to complete the look.  Please email us with your specific requirements and we will be delighted to assist.

Since 2000, we have built up an excellent reputation – not just for the quality and the fit of our suits, but also the experience that we share with our clients.

  • We have thousands of cloths to choose from
  • Wedding suits start from £700 for a 2 piece
  • Our expert tailors will guide you through every stage
  • It takes approx. 6-8 weeks to make a suit
  • Book online for Brighton or London

BOOK A CONSULTATION

GRESHAM BLAKE BESPOKE TAILORING PROCESS

At Gresham Blake we offer a relaxed approach to tailoring to anyone that is interested in design. Our clients come from all walks of life. Specialising in ‘design-led’ tailoring, anything is possible at Gresham Blake.

At Gresham Blake we offer a relaxed approach to tailoring to anyone that is interested in design. Our clients come from all walks of life.

Specialising in ‘Design Led Tailoring’ , anything is possible at Gresham Blake.

When you book an appointment you will be matched to a one of our experienced tailoring consultants.

At your first appointment you have no obligation to buy from us, we are very happy for you to come and see us, to find out what we can do for you.

Mr. Steve Coogan being fitted by Gresham in our Brighton Store Consulting Rooms

BOOK ONLINE

STYLING YOUR SUIT

Your tastes, interests and lifestyle will be discussed (as much as you want) so that we can really get to know you and help you to design the best possible garment.

CLOTH SELECTIONS

You will select your cloth, from the thousands of fabrics we have available, and we will guide you with this, as much as you want to be guided.

MEASURMENTS

If you decide to go ahead, we will then take your measurements, as well as notes on stance, build and posture.

The full appointment may take 1-2 hours, plenty of time to choose a cloth, discuss a design and get measured up.  But we won’t rush you, if you need more time, then we will be more than happy to accommodate.

CONFIRMING A READY DATE

BOOK ONLINE

It normally takes 6 – 8 weeks for a suit to be ready.  However, we do offer an express service and for an express charge we can make you a suit very quickly.

If your suit is needed for a specific occasion, your tailoring consultant will be able to give you an approximate finish date for your garment.  Our production manager will then confirm this date with you.

PLACING YOUR ORDER

We require a 50% deposit when we place the order. Alternatively, if you decide to pay in full, we give you a 5% discount. The balance will be taken when you collect the suit.

WHAT HAPPENS NEXT?

Your tailoring consultant will stay in touch with you and will update you on the suit production.  The production team will also get in touch and advice when suit is ready for a fitting.

THE FITTING

Unless you have placed an express order, the fitting will normally be ready in 6-8 weeks following the placement of your order.

The fitting is crucial, as this is the point where we will ‘fine tune’ your garment, with minor modifications to get the garment just right.

Normally it requires 1- 2 fittings for your suit to be just right and for you to take away.

In our Brighton Store, we have an ‘in-house workshop’ where we can carry out these modifications expressly on request.

MORE INFORMATION

We encourage our clients to book appointments in advance either BOOK ONLINE or by calling us on 01273 609587.

If you would like any further information on the process, please do not hesitate to get in touch with our bespoke customer services team – customerservices@greshamblake.com

Want the Best Bespoke Suit for Your Special Event? A little GB Guide, by Fal Blake.

Myself and Gresham on our wedding day in 1999.

Do you have a special occasion on the horizon such as a WEDDING? 

If so, it’s important to look and feel your best. Wearing a suit off the peg might be convenient, but does it deliver the confidence and swagger you need to make a grand appearance and stand out from the crowd?

When you’re ready to make a dazzling impression, only a bespoke suit will do.

Today, we’re sharing a guide to our bespoke tailoring process and the radical difference it makes when it’s time to shine.

Ready to learn more? Let’s get started!

What is a Bespoke Suit?

Any clothing retailer can offer a suit that looks great off the peg. Yet, unless it’s designed to fit your exact measurements, it could end up both uncomfortable and unsightly once you try it on. 

That’s why it pays to invest in bespoke tailoring.

Franky Vicentio wearing a Gresham Blake 3 piece Black Silk Suit

We have a team of Expert Tailors at both our Shoreditch London and Brighton stores. When you choose the bespoke route, you’ll work with our tailors from the very beginning to create the perfect suit. We’ll spare no detail and take everything into consideration.

While the entire process takes around eight weeks, we can accommodate shorter timelines by special request by the customer. Let’s take a look at the process from start to finish.

Fabric Selection

Bespoke Cloth

From weddings and graduations to corporate events and galas, we understand that sometimes, you need a one-of-a-kind fabric that we don’t have in stock. If that’s the case, we’re more than happy to help you create it!

Bespoke Cloth designed by Gresham Blake

Our skilled design team will walk you through each step of this exciting and rewarding journey, taking into account both the exterior fabric and lining of your suit. Whether you’re creating a printed lining, suiting or shirting, we’ll help bring your ideas to life. We specialize in print design and woven jacquards!

Premium Cloths

While we have access to an extensive range of British milled cloths, we can also interpret a variety of other fabrics upon request. You can design your own print, insert panels, and add seams as desired!

Some of our premium fabric choices designed for suits and waistcoats include:

  • Mohair
  • Wool
  • Linen/ Cotton/ Silk

What is mohair?

A sweet little fluffy Angora Goat – looking effortlessly stylish

This luxuriously soft fabric is made from the hair of an Angora goats. Renowned around the world for its glistening sheen, mohair is also one of the most durable and great-wearing materials on the market!

It was huge in the 60’s – all the Mod’s wore Mohair, and looked super sharp.

And by the way, did you know Mohair is James Bond cloth of choice? 

Daniel Craig AKA James Bond, in a mohair suit

Prefer a wool suit? It’s one of the most timeless and attractive options, but it’s far from standard. As not all wool is created equal, let’s review how to discern the difference.

Understanding Worsted Wool and the Super System

In short, worsted wool is comprised of long fibres spun into a fine yarn. The result? A cloth that is sleek, refined and perfect for a variety of suit types. In addition to being attractive and versatile, worsted wool is also:

  • Breathable
  • Sturdy
  • Water-resistant
  • Wrinkle-resistant

If you’ve decided to use this fabric for your bespoke suit, your next step will be to navigate the Super System. These are the series of numbers that you’ve likely seen while shopping for a suit in the past. What do they mean?

The Super System is designed to represent the fabric’s fineness. Put simply, the number dictates how many times the wool has been twisted. As that count rises, so does the look and feel of the material. Still, all varieties possess the premium qualities of worsted wool.

For instance, a Super 180 suit will have a smoother appearance than a Super 80 suit, but that doesn’t mean the latter is lower quality. It will simply have a coarser and sturdier look. As a general rule of thumb, higher-number suits are reserved for more special occasions while lower-count varieties are ideal for regular, everyday use. 

As you do your research and browse your options, keep in mind that the Super System is not internationally standardised. Our team of tailors has its own guide and will advise you on the ideal number count that’s appropriate to your needs.

Design-Led Tailoring

There’s no designer touch we can’t add. Our tailors will take every consideration to help to create a design that fits your event and surpass your expectations. When you want to showcase your individual style, we’re your go-to Tailor!

Accents of ‘Fun’ on Gresham Blake Clothing….It’s the detail that counts!

While we pride ourselves in creating suits that “wow” on the outside, we know that true craftsmanship is in the details. That’s why we focus on the minute features that make a bespoke suit so special, including hand-sewn buttonholes, hand-stitched linings and turn-back collars.

We LOVE little accents of fun, and will guide you with what works.  For example, our very special client Mr. Honey likes Bumblebees embroidered under his top collar. This is embroidered onto a melton, which can also be in a contrasting colour.

These personal touches make the suit YOURS.

Measurements and Fittings

Our team will normally require only one to two fittings to make sure your new suit fits exactly the way it’s meant to. Our professionals can utilise contemporary or traditional tailoring techniques depending on your preferences.

Our contemporary tailoring services are more modern in nature, offering enhanced flexibility over traditional tailors. We’ll create any pattern or style you desire, and make sure it fits like a charm before your big reveal.

With a traditional tailoring experience, we’ll create a personal pattern that fits your measurements. Then, we’ll construct the garment with a loose canvas, allowing it to mould perfectly to your body shape and movements. This way, you can rest assured that your suit will flow as effortlessly and stylishly as you do, all night long.

Bespoke Tailoring Options

At Gresham Blake, we’ll take the time and care to create a bespoke suit that meets your exact specifications. Thanks to our design-led approach, nothing is out of the question. 

At Gresham Blake…anything is possible!

Let’s take a look at a few of our different cuts and styles you can peruse when you go for your consultation. 

Suit Cuts

Our three main suit cuts include:

  • Classic Fit
  • Relaxed Fit
  • Slim Fit

Our tailors will work with you to determine which cut flatters your features and meets your personal style preference.

Jackets: What Style?

We offer a vast range of   styles for our suit jackets, all of which are available upon request. These include Single Breasted/ Double Breasted/ Nehru Styles incorporating single-button, double-button, no-show buttons, and more,

We can also design three-button suit jackets, high-button styles, and other custom touches.

Jackets: Lapels

Your lapel is a place to make a style statement. We can accommodate a variety of styles, including:

  • Shawl lapels
  • Classic notch lapels (3.5-inch)
  • Narrow notch lapels (2-inch to 3.25-inch)
  • Peak lapels

When you want to turn heads for all the right reasons, you can also embellish your lapel! Our special additions include:

  • Contrasting top collars
  • Contrasting meltons under collars
  • Custom binding detail
  • HEE/AMF stitching

We also offer a variety of vent styles (back of jacket), pocket styles, and cuff styles for you to select! In addition to suit jackets, we can also create country-wear jackets and bespoke evening jackets perfect for a refined night on the town. In addition, our selection of longer wedding jackets is impressive and inspiring, with styles that include:

  • Morning coats
  • Classic white-tie coats
  • Frock coats

Waistcoats

Worn alone or as part of a three-piece suit, a waistcoat is a wardrobe staple. Why not make yours as unique as possible? Our tailors can create any design you dream up and add any special feature, such as:

  • Contrasting lapels
  • Custom button details
  • Contrasting buttonholes
  • Vertical chain holes for pocket watches
  • Horseshoe openings

Trousers

Depending on your body type, event and personal style preference, our tailors can provide many different kinds of trouser styles. Some of our top designs include:

  • Classic, flat-fronted trousers
  • Button side adjusters
  • Metal buckle side adjusters
  • Slanting front pockets
  • Turn-up cuffs
  • Fishtail backs
  • Satin side seams

Shoes and Accessories

Want to look fantastic all the way down to your toes? We can even create bespoke shoes that deliver the ultimate in style and personality. We’ll help you design your own shoes, travel bags, belts, and more!

Gresham Blake U-Design, a made to order shoe service available on-line and in-store.

Create Your Own Bespoke Suit With Gresham Blake

Want to stand a little taller and feel your best when it’s your turn to shine? If so, only a bespoke suit from Gresham Blake will do.

Steve Coogan being fitted for a Bespoke Suit with Gresham Blake at our Brighton Store.

We offer an entirely personalized experience from the very start, with fair prices that beat most of our competitor’s. We believe that luxury and high end fashion do not have to come with a soaring price tag, and we’re dedicated to helping you look great without emptying your new designer pockets.

Book an appointment today for a consultation. You’re about to become the best-dressed person in the room, so get ready to shine.

GRESHAM BLAKE JANUARY BLUE’S BESPOKE MEGA OFFER – JAN 2020 PROMOTION ONLY, BOOK NOW

TAILOR GRESHAM BLAKE DESIGNS UNIFORMS FOR THE HARD ROCK HOTEL LONDON WITH HELP OF MUSIC STARS

30 MAY, LONDON 2019: To mark the launch of the new Hard Rock Hotel London, the property has partnered with tailor to the stars, Gresham Blake, to design the hotel’s new uniform collection with the help of award-winning singer-songwriter Rag ‘n’ Bone Man, alongside Slaves guitarist and vocalist, Laurie Vincent.

Pairing legacy with contemporary style, the full collection of 10 outfits plus accessories encapsulate quintessential British style with an anti-establishment edge, and most pieces include the exclusive print designed by Gresham, merging images of classic British rock stars inspired by the Hard Rock’s musical heritage and of course, London itself.

Ian Fletcher, General Manager of the new Hard Rock Hotel London said: “Music is in our blood and as this is the first time the Hard Rock brand has launched a hotel in the UK, it was important that British style and London’s musical heritage shone through on every detail of the hotel including our staff uniforms. We’re looking forward to welcoming guests, offering them a Hard Rock London experience as soon as they walk through our doors.

Putting their own signature style on the collection, Rag ‘n’ Bone Man and Vincent collaborated to design a long-tailored coat which combines Rag ‘n’ Bone Man’s own tartan pattern with Laurie Vincent’s artwork featuring in the lining of the jacket. On his unique and care-free style, Rag ‘n’ Bone man said:

I’ve never had a stylist and don’t intend on having one. I reckon a lot of people feel pressured into dressing a certain way to ‘look the part’ but I don’t really care as long as I’m comfortable”.

Blake has managed to bring together the spirit of London and the building’s iconic music history by creating a timeless collection, representative of British music and culture past and present.  

On his new collection, Gresham Blake said: “The collection exhibits a lot of rock idols shown through the printed linings, t-shirts, pocket squares and scarves and we have designed British woven cloths specific for Hard Rock Hotel London.

The 900 room Hard Rock Hotel London will pay homage to the site’s rich history through interior design and carefully curated music memorabilia displays featuring items from a host of musicians from all over the world.


As a Hard Rock fan from childhood, Laurie spoke on his memories of the Hard Rock Cafe in London when visiting as a child:I didn’t want to sit and eat, I just wanted to wander around and stare in wonder at all the music memorabilia.”

Hard Rock Hotel London accommodates two vibrant bars and a lively Hard Rock Cafe® – the second Hard Rock Cafe to open in the Capital City. Guests of Hard Rock Cafe Oxford Street can enjoy fresh, high-quality items from Hard Rock’s menu, filled with new and exciting cocktail creations and classic American cooking. With 370 seats, the hotel’s Hard Rock Cafe is set to be the ultimate Central hang out. Combining an elevated food and drink offering with weekly live music performances, celebrating both local London and international talent, the cafe offers an electric atmosphere, perfect for all occasions – from lunch meetings to after work drinks.

Now open on the corner of Oxford Street at Marble Arch, guests will be placed just steps away from the very best the capital has to offer. From chic boutiques and world-famous department stores, to historic theatres and world-class restaurants in London’s West End, Hard Rock Hotel London is sure to inspire and excite in equal measure.

For more information on the hotel opening, please visit

www.hrhlondon.com

For more information on Gresham Blake, please visit www.greshamblake.com

For further information on Hard Rock London, please visit the team at Exposure hrhlondon@exposure.net

Hard Rock International

With venues in 76 countries,
including 184 cafes, 27 hotels and 12
casinos, Hard Rock International (HRI) is one of the most
globally recognized companies. Beginning with an Eric Clapton
guitar, Hard Rock owns the world's most valuable collection of
music memorabilia, which is displayed at its locations around the
globe. Hard Rock is also known for its collectible fashion and
music-related merchandise available in Rock Shops and online at https://shop.hardrock.com.
HRI owns the global trademark for all Hard Rock brands
including Hard Rock Live performance venues. The company owns,
operates and franchises Cafes in iconic cities including London, New York, San
Francisco, Sydney and Dubai. HRI also owns, licenses and/or manages
hotel/casino properties worldwide. Destinations include the company’s two most
successful Hotel and Casino properties in Tampa and Hollywood, FL., both owned
and operated by HRI parent entity The Seminole Tribe of Florida, as well as
other exciting locations including Atlantic City, Bali, Cancun, Daytona Beach,
Desaru Coast, Ibiza, Orlando, Shenzhen and San Diego. Upcoming
new Hard Rock Cafe locations include Piccadilly Circus and
Oxford Street in the United Kingdom, Djerba, Tunisia, Gran Canaria, Spain and Chandigarh,
India. New Hard Rock Hotel, Casino or Hotel & Casino projects
include Amsterdam, Berlin, Budapest, Dublin, London, Los Cabos, Madrid,
Maldives, New York City, Ottawa, Sacramento, Dalian and Haikou in China. In
2018, Hard Rock International was recognized as a Forbes
Magazine Top Employer for Women and Land Operator of the Year at the Global
Gaming Awards. For more information
on Hard Rock International visit www.hardrock.com.

About glh Hotels

glh stands for Great London
Hospitality and is London's largest hotel owner-operator, creating memorable
moments for guests whilst delivering unforgettable hospitality. With over 5,000
rooms and 130 meeting and event spaces across 17 outstanding locations, glh is
at the heart of London hospitality. Including Amba, every, Guoman, Thistle and
the newly launched Thistle Express, glh’s portfolio of hotel brands provides
guests with the perfect slice of local city life, whatever their purpose of
their stay.
 

Best Dressed at BAFTA’S

A double for Gresham Blake at The BAFTA TV Awards 2019

BAFTA TV AWARDS 2019. Last night the best in the TV biz donned their best and snazziest bling to walk the red carpet.

BAFTA TV AWARDS 2019 | RED CARPET | STEVE COOGAN | GRESHAM BLAKE
Steve Coogan with his glamorous daughter on the red carpet.

We were pleased to say that Gresham Blake was commissioned to dress the two Best (in our opinion) men on the Stage:

  1. A Direct descendant of the King of England – Mr. Danny Dyer (197th in line to the Throne)
  2. The best of the best – Mr. Steve Coogan – who we have dressed for many a fine do.

So, what did Danny Dyer wear?

As a descendant of the King of England, Danny Dyer has an image to uphold.

Danny Dyer came to see us around 2 weeks ago at The Gresham Blake Shoreditch Store. He commissioned a Black Bespoke Two piece, Double Breasted DJ with Silk Jacquard lapels. We accessorised his look with a classic white shirt and a black skinny silk tie; A pair of black leather Cheaney boots completed the look.

BAFTA TV AWARDS 2019 | DANNY DYER | GRESHAM BLAKE
The King himself, on stage in his Gresham Blake whistle with Holly Willoughby.

In true Gresham Blake style, we designed a special lining just for him. Our newest designer Kezia Byass quickly whipped up a custom print donning

I AM KING

DANNY DYER | BESPOKE SUIT | BAFTAS TV 2019 | GRESHAM BLAKE
Danny’s bespoke Gresham Blake Lining ‘ I AM KING’

In addition to this, we embroidered a special little golden crown on the melton under his top collar.

DANNY DYER | BESPOKE SUIT | BAFTAS TV 2019 | GRESHAM BLAKE
Bespoke melton – its all in the details!

The Final Result saw some great comments across social media and from Danny himself:

“Shout out to the lovely, nutty creative @greshamblake for me sorting me a fine whistle for the BAFTAS TV. Smudge by Scottish Kenny

Danny Dyer

Not sure what he means by “nutty” maybe any of you readers can explain?

And we deciphered the word ‘Smudge” – this is in reference to the amazing Photo that our very own Kenny McCracken, photographer extraordinaire, took in our London Store.

All Hail to Mr. Danny Dyer!

DANNY DYER | GRESHAM BLAKE
Kenny took this awesome shot in the Gresham Blake Shoreditch store.

On to another favourite, Mr. Steve Coogan.

Well, believe or not, he came in to the Gresham Blake Brighton Store the day before the award ceremony. He needed some last minute help to look the part – which we were happy to help with. He chose a classic black Single Breasted DJ, with Gresham Blake logo Satin Lapels. We completed his look with a Classic Collar, pleated white dress shirt and a black velvet Bow tie.

“Gresham Blake makes elegant mens tailoring sharp but always with a wink and a smile.”

Steve Coogan

Well, Mr. Coogan, you have certainly made us smile for ever!

BAFTA TV AWARDS 2019 | RED CARPET | STEVE COOGAN | GRESHAM BLAKE
Steve Coogan on stage at The BAFTA TV awards 2019

And The Bride Wore

A bespoke Gresham Blake Tracksuit!

Rag N Bone Man Wedding | Gresham Blake
Rory and Beth, suitable seated in their Wedding Garms’

Beth has been a fan of our bespoke tracksuits for a while, so we were thrilled when she asked us to collaborate on a design for her wedding day to Rory (Rag n Bone Man).

Rag N Bone Man Wedding | Gresham Blake
Congratulations to the happy couple.

Beth collaborated with the Gresham Blake design team to create this custom piece that features the image of their cat ‘Patricia’. It was a privilege to create this bespoke piece for her.

Massive congratulations to you both 🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤

If you would like your own bespokeGresham Blake tracksuit, get in touch with our team in either Brighton or London and we will get the design process started.

Alternatively we stock a range of unisex tracksuits which can be found both online and in-store.

Contrasting Material

Sometimes when designing your suit you may want to add a bolder design choice outside of the many lapel, pocket and button choices available. A great way of doing this is to introduce contrasting materials into the look, which when done well, can work as coherently as a suit that has the same cloth throughout.

Here at Gresham Blake we can put together an outfit for you from our extensive selection of materials, book an appointment and delve into the thousands of choices that we have at our finger tips, use linings and colours to pull the contrasting garments together, all part of the design process that we will guide you through.

Brighton client Mr Steele did exactly that.

Bespoke Gresham Blake Client Mr Steele recently popped into our Brighton store to see our resident Bespoke Tailor, Martin Jones.

Mr Steele wanted Gresham Blake to create a suit that he could separate up into single garments and wear as a 3 piece suit. Specifically a navy blazer teamed with a contrasting cloth that had clear texture and pattern.

Bespoke Gresham Blake Suit
Mr Steele in our Brighton Bespoke Consultation Room.

Together they decided on a Prince Of Wales Check for the bespoke waistcoat and trousers, team with a luxurious rich navy jacket.

Bespoke Gresham Blake Suit
The bespoke waistcoat and trousers have been made in a contrasting Prince Of Wales Check

Each piece can, as requested by our client be worn on it’s own and teamed with other garments in his wardrobe. At the same time, it works perfectly as a 3 piece suit.

Bespoke Gresham Blake Suit

If you would like your own bespoke Gresham Blake garments, or to form your own separates wardrobe, then book in with our team of bespoke tailors in either our Brighton or Shoreditch stores.

Appointments can be booked online HERE. Or by calling us on the below.

London – 020 7375 0365 / Brighton – 01273 609587