Do you have a special occasion on the horizon such as a WEDDING?
If so, it’s important to look and feel your best. Wearing a suit off the peg might be convenient, but does it deliver the confidence and swagger you need to make a grand appearance and stand out from the crowd?
When you’re ready to make a dazzling impression, only a bespoke suit will do.
Today, we’re sharing a guide to our bespoke tailoring process and the radical difference it makes when it’s time to shine.
Ready to learn more? Let’s get started!
What is a Bespoke Suit?
Any clothing retailer can offer a suit that looks great off the peg. Yet, unless it’s designed to fit your exact measurements, it could end up both uncomfortable and unsightly once you try it on.
That’s why it pays to invest in bespoke tailoring.
We have a team of Expert Tailors at both our Shoreditch London and Brighton stores. When you choose the bespoke route, you’ll work with our tailors from the very beginning to create the perfect suit. We’ll spare no detail and take everything into consideration.
While the entire process takes around eight weeks, we can accommodate shorter timelines by special request by the customer. Let’s take a look at the process from start to finish.
From weddings and graduations to corporate events and galas, we understand that sometimes, you need a one-of-a-kind fabric that we don’t have in stock. If that’s the case, we’re more than happy to help you create it!
Our skilled design team will walk you through each step of this exciting and rewarding journey, taking into account both the exterior fabric and lining of your suit. Whether you’re creating a printed lining, suiting or shirting, we’ll help bring your ideas to life. We specialize in print design and woven jacquards!
While we have access to an extensive range of British milled cloths, we can also interpret a variety of other fabrics upon request. You can design your own print, insert panels, and add seams as desired!
Some of our premium fabric choices designed for suits and waistcoats include:
- Linen/ Cotton/ Silk
What is mohair?
This luxuriously soft fabric is made from the hair of an Angora goats. Renowned around the world for its glistening sheen, mohair is also one of the most durable and great-wearing materials on the market!
It was huge in the 60’s – all the Mod’s wore Mohair, and looked super sharp.
And by the way, did you know Mohair is James Bond cloth of choice?
Prefer a wool suit? It’s one of the most timeless and attractive options, but it’s far from standard. As not all wool is created equal, let’s review how to discern the difference.
Understanding Worsted Wool and the Super System
In short, worsted wool is comprised of long fibres spun into a fine yarn. The result? A cloth that is sleek, refined and perfect for a variety of suit types. In addition to being attractive and versatile, worsted wool is also:
If you’ve decided to use this fabric for your bespoke suit, your next step will be to navigate the Super System. These are the series of numbers that you’ve likely seen while shopping for a suit in the past. What do they mean?
The Super System is designed to represent the fabric’s fineness. Put simply, the number dictates how many times the wool has been twisted. As that count rises, so does the look and feel of the material. Still, all varieties possess the premium qualities of worsted wool.
For instance, a Super 180 suit will have a smoother appearance than a Super 80 suit, but that doesn’t mean the latter is lower quality. It will simply have a coarser and sturdier look. As a general rule of thumb, higher-number suits are reserved for more special occasions while lower-count varieties are ideal for regular, everyday use.
As you do your research and browse your options, keep in mind that the Super System is not internationally standardised. Our team of tailors has its own guide and will advise you on the ideal number count that’s appropriate to your needs.
There’s no designer touch we can’t add. Our tailors will take every consideration to help to create a design that fits your event and surpass your expectations. When you want to showcase your individual style, we’re your go-to Tailor!
While we pride ourselves in creating suits that “wow” on the outside, we know that true craftsmanship is in the details. That’s why we focus on the minute features that make a bespoke suit so special, including hand-sewn buttonholes, hand-stitched linings and turn-back collars.
We LOVE little accents of fun, and will guide you with what works. For example, our very special client Mr. Honey likes Bumblebees embroidered under his top collar. This is embroidered onto a melton, which can also be in a contrasting colour.
These personal touches make the suit YOURS.
Measurements and Fittings
Our team will normally require only one to two fittings to make sure your new suit fits exactly the way it’s meant to. Our professionals can utilise contemporary or traditional tailoring techniques depending on your preferences.
Our contemporary tailoring services are more modern in nature, offering enhanced flexibility over traditional tailors. We’ll create any pattern or style you desire, and make sure it fits like a charm before your big reveal.
With a traditional tailoring experience, we’ll create a personal pattern that fits your measurements. Then, we’ll construct the garment with a loose canvas, allowing it to mould perfectly to your body shape and movements. This way, you can rest assured that your suit will flow as effortlessly and stylishly as you do, all night long.
Bespoke Tailoring Options
At Gresham Blake, we’ll take the time and care to create a bespoke suit that meets your exact specifications. Thanks to our design-led approach, nothing is out of the question.
Let’s take a look at a few of our different cuts and styles you can peruse when you go for your consultation.
Our three main suit cuts include:
- Classic Fit
- Relaxed Fit
- Slim Fit
Our tailors will work with you to determine which cut flatters your features and meets your personal style preference.
Jackets: What Style?
We offer a vast range of styles for our suit jackets, all of which are available upon request. These include Single Breasted/ Double Breasted/ Nehru Styles incorporating single-button, double-button, no-show buttons, and more,
We can also design three-button suit jackets, high-button styles, and other custom touches.
Your lapel is a place to make a style statement. We can accommodate a variety of styles, including:
- Shawl lapels
- Classic notch lapels (3.5-inch)
- Narrow notch lapels (2-inch to 3.25-inch)
- Peak lapels
When you want to turn heads for all the right reasons, you can also embellish your lapel! Our special additions include:
- Contrasting top collars
- Contrasting meltons under collars
- Custom binding detail
- HEE/AMF stitching
We also offer a variety of vent styles (back of jacket), pocket styles, and cuff styles for you to select! In addition to suit jackets, we can also create country-wear jackets and bespoke evening jackets perfect for a refined night on the town. In addition, our selection of longer wedding jackets is impressive and inspiring, with styles that include:
- Morning coats
- Classic white-tie coats
- Frock coats
Worn alone or as part of a three-piece suit, a waistcoat is a wardrobe staple. Why not make yours as unique as possible? Our tailors can create any design you dream up and add any special feature, such as:
- Contrasting lapels
- Custom button details
- Contrasting buttonholes
- Vertical chain holes for pocket watches
- Horseshoe openings
Depending on your body type, event and personal style preference, our tailors can provide many different kinds of trouser styles. Some of our top designs include:
- Classic, flat-fronted trousers
- Button side adjusters
- Metal buckle side adjusters
- Slanting front pockets
- Turn-up cuffs
- Fishtail backs
- Satin side seams
Shoes and Accessories
Want to look fantastic all the way down to your toes? We can even create bespoke shoes that deliver the ultimate in style and personality. We’ll help you design your own shoes, travel bags, belts, and more!
Create Your Own Bespoke Suit With Gresham Blake
Want to stand a little taller and feel your best when it’s your turn to shine? If so, only a bespoke suit from Gresham Blake will do.
We offer an entirely personalized experience from the very start, with fair prices that beat most of our competitor’s. We believe that luxury and high end fashion do not have to come with a soaring price tag, and we’re dedicated to helping you look great without emptying your new designer pockets.
Book an appointment today for a consultation. You’re about to become the best-dressed person in the room, so get ready to shine.